Off The Map In Central Mongolia — A Photo Essay

Sometimes the tracks were barely visible. In many countries this would be a cause for alarm, but in Mongolia it's possible to ride directly across the step, and following a valley or heading for a water source is guaranteed to bring you in contact with at least one herding family and their ger in order to check directions. Once we got used to this kind of geographical freedom, we started to push further and further off the well-worn paths.

A sudden change of weather is never far away. The speed at which storms blow in is incredible, given the vastness of the landscapes. Usually they threaten rain but deliver only a stiff breeze that makes pitching camp somewhat arduous.

This was the only roadsign I saw for a week. It doesn't point to a settlement, either - this reads 'Hanuy Tour'. Hanuy is the name of a small river and of a natural spring which we couldn't find.

It was a great change of scenery when forests started becoming more commonplace. Trees are harvested for timber and firewood, but there is no evidence of large-scale deforestation thus far. The trees grow quickly during the short summer in order to survive the bitter winter.

A shrine such as the one Andy is photographing here is an essential piece of furniture at the top of each pass, no matter how remote. We'd been following a very faint pair of tyre tracks all day and were surprised to come across a shrine of this size at the top of the final climb.

We crossed the Hanuy river with the intention of taking a cross-country shortcut to the next town, but eventually crossed back to the other side when it became clear that the hills and cliffs were going to be very difficult to cross.

Sometimes the laws of physics take over and hike-and-bike is the only option!

Approaching the small town of Bayan-Agt. Despite the remoteness and lack of transport infrastructure, these small towns are well-stocked with provisions and facilities for the traveller. A packet of Korean instant noodles is never far away.

High up a long climb in a remote valley, we came across a set of goalposts and a basketball net. The nearest ger was several kilometres down the valley.

Off-road travel in Mongolia generally seems to involve repeated traversals of vast valleys twenty or thirty kilometres wide. A long climb precedes an adrenalin-filled descent, followed by a monotonous grind across a windy valley floor. The process is repeated. Luckily, each valley often seems to have its own micro-climate and its own distinctive character, which keeps things interesting in the long run.

Horses play a large part in the rural lifestyle. Sometimes they are herded in large groups, like other domestic livestock, and sometimes they roam in small units or alone.

One morning we were treated to a hidden gem of a descent through a cool forest, a few hours ride away from the town of Rashaant.

Another pass, another shrine. This one marked our rejoining of the main route to Moron. Another benign storm loomed across the valley but ultimately failed to deliver.

This is me, looking grime-stained and sun-tanned and I guess not particularly smiley!